Travelogues

Sunday 27 September 2015

Day 2 (Contd).


Entered Kinnaur, goal was to reach Sangla before 7:00pm but how often do you achieve your goal especially when you are riding in the Himalayas. I covered hardly few kms, and found this huge jam near Jhakri. A bolero collided with a truck which led to this jam though I hope the passengers were safe. I zig-zagged through the jam, utilized every little space to crawl through it but then got stuck at this point.
 

Then it took over an hour for it to be cleared. Lots of time wasted here, it was 5:45pm and it started to get dark.

Now, I had two options:

No.1 -> Go back to Rampur, the road behind is good, the route is known to me, all the basic amenities are available there and I can reach there in an hour or so.

OR

No.2 -> Don't head back, keeping moving ahead and I should be able to reach Sangla by 8pm.

So the crazy me kicked in and I choose option No.2, not aware of the challenge that lies ahead.

By 6:15pm, it was completely dark and my destination was still very far. My average speed till a small village(before Wangtoo) was 30kmph, I could have ridden faster but thanks to the bad headlight of my bike, I could only see 15 feet ahead of me. After crossing this village, the worst of roads started... sand, slush, potholes, rocks, sharp stones that could rip your tires apart and god knows what, never ridden on such roads before. That brought down my speed to under 20kmph and I knew I had to ride very carefully. This last stretch gave me the the most uncomfortable and painful ride. It was pitch dark and I was the only one riding, encountered may be just a couple of vehicles all the way till Sangla.   

                                                                 @ Wangtoo


@Tapri... and Sangla still 27kms away, took a short break here and then continued.

While I was riding, I had all these negative thoughts knocking my head, "What if the bike breaks down and I have to spend the night on the road???"..."Phone's network is skeptical, so I might not be able to make a call"..."Can't get help from the locals either, as at this time they all must be in their houses with doors locked"... "Since, its November end, the weather can get bad and it can snow anytime". I was literally worried, reached Kharcham and saw this quote. It couldn't have come at a better time, was really a morale booster and then I decided that no matter what I have to make it to Sangla tonight.
                                                                 @Kharcham...
Took a wrong turn after Kharcham, 3-4kms down the road and something didn't seem right, my instincts were telling me that I may have taken the wrong road. So went back to Kharcham, there was an army check post, asked them about the route to Sangla and got confirmed that I was indeed on the wrong road. So took the other road this time and reached Sangla @ 8:45pm. Found this guest house "Dev Bhoomi Regency", the very first G.H. on the right. It was closed, but I could see from the window that a lamp was lit, so knocked the door and yelled for about 10-15 minutes. Finally one of the hotel staff woke up or was already awake... not sure and opened the door. He was shocked and in disbelief as if he just saw a ghost. He was definitely not expecting someone to arrive at this time of the year and that too during night.

(Conversation between me and the G.H. Staff)

Him(speaking in high tone as if he was scolding me): Its too late, where are you coming from today?
Me(I was tired and not in a mood to talk): Coming from a place nine hours away from here, just don't remember its name.
Him: How many rooms do you need and who all are with you???
Me: If you have a "buy one, get one" offer then I need two rooms for myself.
Him: Are your friends not coming???
Me: No, they were riding slow, so I left them all behind in Delhi.
Me: What do you have in dinner?
Him: Sorry, there is nothing, the kitchen is closed and we usually sleep around 8pm.

Went to my room, ate a packet of chips which I bought from Rampur, it was not a good substitute but there wasn't any other option. Finally, collapsed on the bed. Before I slept, I thanked god for protecting me. One thing I realized there was that no matter how good a rider you are, if you have crossed those unforgiving roads at night and reached your destination safely. Its not because of your riding skills but because of that unseen force who protected you all the time.
                                          
                                      My bike, outside Dev Bhoomi Guest House..
     
                                          Temperature that night as per Accuweather

                             Some pics I clicked in the evening when I entered Kinnaur




Saturday 26 September 2015

Day 1 and 2

Chitkul - The Last Village on India-Tibet Road

My first solo bike trip

How a Dharamshala-Mcleod Ganj bike trip changed to Chitkul???

The original plan was for Dharamshala-Mcleodganj, a friend of mine was supposed to accompany me in this trip. Planning started in the 2nd week of November, I already got my leaves approved. Time was not an issue as I had 7 days(19th-25th Nov) in hand and I wanted to cover as much as I can. So I called my friend on Thursday(15th Nov) to know about his preparation and discuss the timings of our departure on Monday(19th Nov). I was so shattered and upset to hear that his leaves got cancelled as his team mate had to take urgent leaves as one of his family members was not well. I got frustrated and so was him as he wanted to be in this trip real bad.

So it had to be a solo trip, I cant cancel it as I was waiting for this from such a long time. Then came the humongous task of convincing my parents for a solo bike trip to Dharamshala. I knew they would never approve it. So should I lie to them that I got company and leave and just tell them the truth once I return? It was a battle between mind and heart. Finally heart won and I decided that I will try to convince them and if they don't approve then with a heavy heart I'll just cancel the trip.

A big thanks to www.bcmtouring.com(The best travel community site), I would probably have not been to all these beautiful places had I not read the amazing travelogues on this site. My inspiration to ride solo came from some great men, who are well known in the travel community, Narender Gautam(A.k.a. Master ji), Yogesh Sarkar, Jasdeep phaji, Hoodibaba and some others for their solo trips. I consider them as my idols. I showed their experiences to my parents, literally begged them, and after numerous requests, they finally agreed. That moment, I was so happy and excited for my first solo bike trip.

Then on Saturday(17th Nov) morning, I slipped while climbing the stairs of my house. My left ankle got twisted, my foot was badly hurt and I was in severe pain. I had to hide that pain from my parents as they would have canceled the trip then and there. So I knew I had to change my plan as I cant do the Triund Trek(9 kms) @ Mcleodganj on one leg. I had Chitkul in mind to be covered in future trips, so decided go for Chitkul instead. I told my parents about this change and was able to convince them by saying that I want to do the 9km trek with a friend as it would be too boring if I do it alone. They asked few questions about Chitkul and then approved it.

My plan was to start early in the morning around 4:00-4:30am and reach Rampur before 6:00pm. But I had to listen to my parents here. They said that it's your first trip as solo, so you shouldn't be driving that long in a day. Start a little late, cover till Solan on day 1, stay at massi's house and then cover the rest on day 2.

AGREED!!!

Day 1 and 2.
Nov 19th-20th(Monday-Tuesday), 2012, 6:25am

(Conversation between me and mom, before leaving for the trip.)

Me: Please don't worry, I will be fine and keep you updated.
Mom: It wont be easy for us, you will know when you have kids.
Me(jokingly): If I'll have kids, I won't be a worrying parent, I will buy them rockets and tell them, they can go to moon, if they want to.

Left home @ 6:30am and reached Solan @ 1:25pm.

Day 2.
Nov 20th(Tuesday), 9:45am


I planned to leave by 6:00am but massi(mirror image of my mother). How can you leave without the breakfast and hence the delay.

There was a huge jam at shimla and chota shimla, a lot of time wasted there. Saw many people standing at this point clicking pics, I didn't know that I reached Kufri. Asked a local guy about the place to which he replied:"KUFRI".

(Conversation between me and the local Himachal guy)

Me(jokingly): This can't be Kufri!!! if this is Kufri then show me the snow?
Him(with devilish grin on his face): Just wait here for another month or so and you will get your snow.
Me(thinking): ye tou mere hi maje lae gaya.

My massi and uncle told me not to travel @ night, cover till Rampur and then do rest of the route tomorrow. Reached Rampur @ 3:20pm. Had lunch in a restaurant, sorry don't remember the name. The restaurant staff was playing cards. They only had daal chawal, so ordered it and also had tea there. Asked the restaurant owner, what are the special places to visit here in Rampur?
He replied that you can roam the market and there are some temples that one can visit.

(Conversation between me and the Restaurant staff)

Him: what's your destination for today?
Me: Chitkul.
Him: I suggest you go till Sangla, it will take about 3 hours, stay at Sangla and then do Chitkul tomorrow.
Me: How is the road ahead till Sangla?
Him: Not so good.
Me(Thinking),I am not tired and can cover more as I have another 2 hours or so before it gets dark and Sangla is just 3 hours away. I can drive an hour in the dark, reach Sangla and cover Chitkul the other day. So went ahead with this plan(didn't know that this was going to be a huge mistake).

The roads from Delhi all the way till Rampur are butter smooth, like heaven but the last stretch, Wangtu(I think) till Chitkul gives you nightmares, about 70 straight kms of HELL.

But do we really visit these places to ride on good roads??? Nahhhh!!!

Below are some pics clicked on Day 1 and 2..... And Day 2 is not over yet ;)


                                                            @ Himalayan E-way
                                                                           Kufri 




                                                                  Narkanda, HP




                                                         River Satluj, near Rampur

                                                           Approaching Rampur