Travelogues

Tuesday 23 February 2016

Day 8

Day 8 (Sep 20): Annual Spiti Festival

Kaza, the sub divisional headquarters of spiti, is a beautiful village, it lies on the banks of Spiti river. It has a good market, almost everything is available. Lots of accommodation and food options. Apart from the Indian and Tibetan food some restaurants also serve Italian food. It has the only fuel station in the entire Spiti valley(opens @ 9:00am) and a Buddhist monastery nearby. There is also a bike mechanic shop(probably the only one in Spiti), so people having issues with their bikes can get them checked here. Its in close proximity to some of the famous places like Key, Kibber, Komik. All of these can be covered in a day's time.

Woke up early in the morning and was welcomed by the chirping sound of house sparrows and other beautiful birds. It was a great sight to see hundreds of sparrows chirping and flying around. It reminded me of my childhood days, when I used to live in my old house which had a big courtyard and had many sparrow nests inside it. The design of the old houses allowed sparrows to make nests inside them. Its really sad to know that the sparrows which used to thrive in Delhi are now disappearing at an alarming rate.

Today was going to be a relaxed day with little riding. The plan was to cover Key, Kibber and Komik. After doing the morning chores I headed for Key. Key is about 20 kms from Kaza, the biggest Monastery in Spiti and the most beautiful too. From the distance it looks like a king's fort, built on a hilltop over 1000 years ago, a masterful piece of architecture. The more you look at it the more you admire it.


Few kms before Key, saw this group of women sitting alongside the road having lunch. Couldn't stop myself from taking this picture with the view of key at the back.



The Majestic Key

Reached Key, there were four more visitors. A lama ji welcomed us and gave us a short tour of the monastery. He showed us some prayer rooms(photography is prohibited), they consisted of wall paintings of lord Buddha and other deities. Some paintings depicting some part of the buddhist history which the humble lamaji tried explaining us but my eyes were so occupied on paintings, lighting, colors, statues, etc inside those beautiful prayer rooms that I couldn't hear anything as if I almost lost my sense to hear.  


Some pearl necklaces, stones and postcards were kept on the table outside the main prayer room

Monastery tour was over, I was about to leave but lama ji stopped me and asked me to follow him to the kitchen, where he offered me a glass of herbal tea and biscuits. The tea was not only yummy but also warmed my body like a blanket, I couldn't resist myself from asking more. Being punjabi by nature, ek glass se mera kya hona tha(just one glass was not enough to satisfy my thirst ). Drank three glasses and was all pumped-up to visit rest of the places for the day.  


Kitchen @ Monastery

My visit to Key was a spiritually uplifting experience.

As I was nearing Kibber, I could see other mountains dwarfing around me and realized why its said to be one of the highest villages in the world. There was a sense of accomplishment after reaching Kibber, top of the world feeling, as almost if I could touch the sky. Roamed around the village, met few villagers and asked them "What's special about this place". To which they smiled and replied "yahan thand bahut padti hai(the weather here gets very cold)". Reached Chicham bridge, the bridge is under construction, there is a rope-way that takes you to the other side. I so wanted to experience the ride and visit chicham but couldnt as to do that I had to leave my bike behind. So decided to skip it and headed towards Komik. On my way back, saw this huge sand storm coming towards me. I was in no mood to take a sand bath. So, I waited and decided, If it gets any closer, I am going back to Kibber. Luckly it showed its mercy upon me and changed its direction. I could see it pass through from the other side. It seemed like the sand storm from the movie "The Mummy", a little less scary though. I stared at it and said "Go back to Egypt, you dont belong here". I heaved a sigh of relief then looked up, smiled and thanked God. Few kms down and it started drizzling, I could see dark clouds above, an indication that it could rain heavily any time which as per the locals is very unusual at this time of the year. Whether was playing its dirty tricks with me.

Decided not to try my luck any further, so skipped Komik and went back to Kaza. By the time I reached Kaza, there was a massive band of greyish-blue clouds filled with rain water. They could have poured heavy rain anytime but they did not. So I reached my guest house and the owner asked me to come attend the annual Spiti festival which happens every year at the end of September. It comprised of singing performances, traditional folk dance, men and women wearing traditional dresses, dance on some Bollywood numbers. All in all, it was cool and some source of entertainment for the people living in those remote areas. Was surprised to meet the Dhankar folks (The young Frenchman, the Iranian and our Mumbaian), they were all there to see the annual function. Just by looking at the locals faces, one could sense the importance of this function for them, they all looked so excited and happy. It was past 11pm, so headed back to my room and slept like a dog.


Kibber


Chicham village as seen from Kibber


Kibber-Chicham bridge under construction, there's a rope-way here which takes you to Chicham.


Vistas En-route


The Sand Storm


Kaza


Annual Spiti Festival

Friday 19 February 2016

Day 7

Day 7 (Sep 19): The Surreal Pin Valley

Woke up early in the morning, and after doing morning chores, went straight to monastery. Stopped my bike at the monastery's entrance and when I was about to enter the monastery I saw this board "It is the monastery's protector deity chapel *** not allowed to go inside". My mind filled with anger, it was boiling inside, some thousand fireworks went off in it. I started thinking I came a long way to visit this place, paid Rs.500 for the hotel room and all I could see is this board. Frustrated to the core, I started heading back, then, all of a sudden heard some noise. Looked back and saw this gorgeous woman descending down the stairs beside that board. My happiness did not last long as her boyfriend was right behind her. I thought of asking them, "where are you guys coming from?", "did any one saw you up there or tried to catch you? as we are not supposed to go there". But before I could open my mouth they disappeared like a fart in the air. Then I looked at the board again and realized the height of my foolishness, that board was only meant for the door sitting above it. One can see the rest of the monastery without getting beat up. A lama ji was there who opened the prayer room and warned "No photography inside the room".


The board that almost sent me back



Few pics of the monastery


Funny little fellas outside the monastery

Trekked upwards to see Dhankar palace and found it to be closed but the view from the top was amazing. Spent some time there, then, headed back to the hotel. While I was descending, a huge herd of goats blocked my way and asked me in their language, "Meeaahhh, Meeahhhhhhh(Who are you and what are you doing here?)". I replied in their language "Meeaaaaaahhhhhhhhh....(If you don't clear my way now, I'm going to whoop your A**). They got my message loud and clear, got out of my way and darted off in opposite directions. Reached hotel, packed luggage, paid the rent and headed towards Pin valley.


Dhankar Palace


Some village on the way to Pin Valley


Just few kms into the beginning of Pin valley, found this road block, the main road was blasted as some repair work was going on.


After chit-chatting with a local, found this alternate route, the first couple of kms were real bad after that it was the usual kacchi(unmetalled) road.

The first village that comes up is Gulling, I was literally starving as I didn't had breakfast. So, did brunch in a small dhaba in Gulling and then headed for Mud village. In my majestic ride to Pin valley, I witnessed the mountains changing colors and shape, from barren mountains to mountains with green spots to mountains covered with red and pinkish blankets, ALIEN shaped mountains and what not. One can spot beautiful tiny villages from miles away, surrounded by mighty mountains, river flowing on the left changing its patterns, clear blue sky above, all this left me spellbound. And I was in no hurry to reach mud as the vistas en-route were so breathtakingly beautiful. Its hard to describe, it cant be captured in pics, you just need to go there and experience it. After hours of blissful ride, finally reached mud.

I had tea in the dhaba "Spiti Tara Tours and Travels" and bought a pack of biscuits worth Rs.60(which I did not pay :( . I wasn't able to talk to mom dad yesterday due network issues at Dhankar, so I knew they must be worried about me. I told this to the dhaba owner and such a kind man he was, he took me to the only house in Mud which had a telephone. Talked to mom dad and informed them that I am more than OK. In all this hurry, I forgot to pay money to the dhaba owner and also left the pack of biscuits half eaten at the dhaba.

Strolled the village. Spent some time there and then left for Kaza. Reached Kaza by 5pm and found a room in Raasta guest house.


Gulling, The first village in Pin Valley


A very beautiful Sagnam village(This is probably the worst pic ever clicked of this village)


Mikkim Village


Mud Village



Vistas en-route