Day 4 (Sep 16): Fear and Hope...
Woke up @8am, weather was nice with clear clouds and sun shining with full glory, a perfect day to ride the bike. Packed the luggage, now comes the worst part, tying luggage to the bike, its quite a task. Went out to visit the temple and found it to be closed, just lke the last time. I guess, I'll have to plan another visit then. Today was going to be a relaxed day, as the destination - Kalpa was not far. So, kick started The Dark Knight(my sexy bike) and left for Kalpa.
Temple @Chitkul
The big big dogs of Chitkul
Had breakfast @ Himalayan Dhaba in Sangla, met a sikh couple in their sixties, they came all the way from Mohali via public transport. They asked me about my route ahead, they seemed interested in getting all the details, like places I'll be covering, total cost, stuff that I have carried with me, etc. They wished me all the best for my journey, even gave me their number and asked me to visit their home in Mohali.
Approaching Kapla
Reached Kalpa around 3pm, was surprised to see Deepak and Anupam there, they were supposed to be go to Nako today. They told me that the army sent them back from the Pangi Nallah as big rocks were falling from above. A tunnel was being constructed under the hill, that shook the entire hill which led to the falling of rocks, they have been falling for almost two months. The chances of that road getting open anytime soon were very slim. That news was very discouraging and saddening. I was cursing myself for taking this route after being warned by the truck driver and dhaba owner @ Theog. So, we decided to stay in the same Hotel, try again tomorrow or look for an alternate route. Found a room in this nice Hotel, Apple Pie in Kalpa, its run by a Delhiite - Aman, now a good friend of mine. After leaving our luggage in the rooms, we went for a bike stroll to Kalpa. Kalpa is a small beautiful town, there is nothing much to see except some temples, apple orchards, suicide point and awe-inspiring views of Kinner Kailash.
Kalpa
My first wild Kinnauri Apple, the yummiest I ever had...
Kinner Kailash
Hotel Apple Pie, highly recommended
Returned to the hotel around 6pm, when it started to get dark and then called The One and Only - SAURABH SABIKHI... Dude has tons of knowledge about Spiti, some hidden places which are not known to many including the locals. Told him about the road status near Pangi Nallah and asked if there is any alternate route to Nako. He gave information about the old indo-tibetan trade route. Inquired some locals about this route and they suggested not to go there as it would be sucidal as nobody has taken that route for years/decades and they doubted if the road still exists and some said that the rocks are falling from just above that road. They suggested to leave early in the morning when traffic would be less and take the Pangi Nallah road as there are chances that the army may allow few vehicles to pass if the rocks stop falling for some time.
A cute french couple was staying in the same hotel from last few days. My room happened to be just above their's. They used to play flute in mornings and evenings. Their hymns and tunes were so refreshing, so soothing to the soul, I wish I could've recorded them. When they were done for the day, I went back to my room, hopped on the bed, covered myself from all the available blankets and started reviewing my activities of the day. I was disturbed by this loud noise and beats, so came out and saw a large group of men marching with torch. Went down to take pictures but was stopped by Aman, the hotel manager. He told me that its a local ritual where in one person's body gets occupied by their local deity, all men follow his orders and roam the entire village. They all seemed under the influence of heavy alcohol. If they see you taking pictures, they might get offended by it and can cause harm to you. That sounded scary, so I went back to my room and collapsed on the bed.
Woke up @8am, weather was nice with clear clouds and sun shining with full glory, a perfect day to ride the bike. Packed the luggage, now comes the worst part, tying luggage to the bike, its quite a task. Went out to visit the temple and found it to be closed, just lke the last time. I guess, I'll have to plan another visit then. Today was going to be a relaxed day, as the destination - Kalpa was not far. So, kick started The Dark Knight(my sexy bike) and left for Kalpa.
Temple @Chitkul
The big big dogs of Chitkul
Had breakfast @ Himalayan Dhaba in Sangla, met a sikh couple in their sixties, they came all the way from Mohali via public transport. They asked me about my route ahead, they seemed interested in getting all the details, like places I'll be covering, total cost, stuff that I have carried with me, etc. They wished me all the best for my journey, even gave me their number and asked me to visit their home in Mohali.
Approaching Kapla
Reached Kalpa around 3pm, was surprised to see Deepak and Anupam there, they were supposed to be go to Nako today. They told me that the army sent them back from the Pangi Nallah as big rocks were falling from above. A tunnel was being constructed under the hill, that shook the entire hill which led to the falling of rocks, they have been falling for almost two months. The chances of that road getting open anytime soon were very slim. That news was very discouraging and saddening. I was cursing myself for taking this route after being warned by the truck driver and dhaba owner @ Theog. So, we decided to stay in the same Hotel, try again tomorrow or look for an alternate route. Found a room in this nice Hotel, Apple Pie in Kalpa, its run by a Delhiite - Aman, now a good friend of mine. After leaving our luggage in the rooms, we went for a bike stroll to Kalpa. Kalpa is a small beautiful town, there is nothing much to see except some temples, apple orchards, suicide point and awe-inspiring views of Kinner Kailash.
Kalpa
My first wild Kinnauri Apple, the yummiest I ever had...
Kinner Kailash
Hotel Apple Pie, highly recommended
Returned to the hotel around 6pm, when it started to get dark and then called The One and Only - SAURABH SABIKHI... Dude has tons of knowledge about Spiti, some hidden places which are not known to many including the locals. Told him about the road status near Pangi Nallah and asked if there is any alternate route to Nako. He gave information about the old indo-tibetan trade route. Inquired some locals about this route and they suggested not to go there as it would be sucidal as nobody has taken that route for years/decades and they doubted if the road still exists and some said that the rocks are falling from just above that road. They suggested to leave early in the morning when traffic would be less and take the Pangi Nallah road as there are chances that the army may allow few vehicles to pass if the rocks stop falling for some time.
A cute french couple was staying in the same hotel from last few days. My room happened to be just above their's. They used to play flute in mornings and evenings. Their hymns and tunes were so refreshing, so soothing to the soul, I wish I could've recorded them. When they were done for the day, I went back to my room, hopped on the bed, covered myself from all the available blankets and started reviewing my activities of the day. I was disturbed by this loud noise and beats, so came out and saw a large group of men marching with torch. Went down to take pictures but was stopped by Aman, the hotel manager. He told me that its a local ritual where in one person's body gets occupied by their local deity, all men follow his orders and roam the entire village. They all seemed under the influence of heavy alcohol. If they see you taking pictures, they might get offended by it and can cause harm to you. That sounded scary, so I went back to my room and collapsed on the bed.
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